Word: governo
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Dates: during 2000-2009
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...transvestite who sat to the left of our fearless author. Perhaps I was overcome by a certain nostalgie de la bou. Perhaps, in my infinite naiveté, I thought I might actually resolve, once and for all, the eternal conundrum in the realm of Chianti vinification beliefs: to governo or not to governo. Perhaps I hoped that our leader, Diane Henault-Tosi (donning the dubious title of “wine consultant”), might actually help me understand the rage behind the clumsy “New Age” producers of “designer” wines...
...This Querciavalle ’94 is a profound and complex classico. Dry, crisp, harmonious. Smooth. Deep. Chest-beatingly masculine. It is a bona fide example of the governo. In the governo method, batches of grapes are left to out to dry up and shrivel in order to be pressed and added later to an already fermented wine, thus creating a second round of fermentation. This process is universally believed to enhance the flavors that embrace Chianti, softening the tannins, giving a richer, fruitier wine. The routine is considered de rigueur among some Chianti producers. Here, the mildly vegetal notes...