Word: gown
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Dates: during 1980-1989
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Vreeland's ten previous collaborations with the museum's Costume Institute have been both hot tickets and publicity bonanzas, and "La Belle Epoque" shows every sign of being a smash too. The women's gowns of the era, which by Vreeland's chronology developed in the last half of the 19th century and ended on the eve of the first World War, were opulent and imperial. They may have been the most extravagant fashion since the court of the Sun King. Worth, Doucet, Callot Soeurs, Poiret: the great fashion houses are all represented with gowns...
There is no attempt to describe or delineate a house style, to demonstrate how a gown by Worth might be designed or constructed differently from a gown by Paquin. Paul Poiret, one of the first modernist dress designers, is represented in this show by five pieces, but anything that made Poiret daringly innovative is smothered here in the general ambience. In this great age of squeeze, tie and whalebone, Poiret even made dresses to be worn without corsets, but this idea, and all others, goes unremarked by the exhibitors. They busy themselves instead compiling identifications for each garment that list...
...20th centuries fashioned humble toys from wood scraps, nuts, cornhusks, leather, even wishbones and wax. Wendy Lavitt has culled choice examples in American Folk Dolls (Knopf; 133 pages; $14.95 paperback) from museum and private collections, including her own. Among the finds: a simple cloth child in a beautifully detailed gown, the product of someone's exquisite needlework; an Indian doll caught between two cultures, dressed in buckskin, but with a nun's veil; Eskimos in sealskin, their curved ivory faces true to tribal doll convention: smiles for the boys, frowns for the girls. These miniatures are more than...
...studying with Lee Strasberg and Elia Kazan at the prestigious Actors Studio (with, among others, Geraldine Page, Rod Steiger and James Dean). Then Warner Bros, offered him a long-term movie contract starting at $1,000 a week. Abruptly he found himself wearing what he called a "cocktail gown" and playing a Greek slave named Basil in a religious costume saga, The Silver Chalice. It was the sort of absurdity that Virginia Mayo used to appear in, and she was in it. Newman, who is self-conscious about his bony legs, was so abashed that, as he points...
They have a marriage. A few years ago, when he was filming in Hawaii, Paul handed Joanne a box with a new evening gown in it. When she had changed, they were flown to a deserted golf course where they were served an elegant dinner alone beside the sea, serenaded by a string quartet. A superstar's easy gesture; what says more is that after 2½ decades he describes her, with great relish, as "a voluptuary...