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...ethnic Albanian mob to leave their home in the Kosovo capital, Pristina, last March, and then obliged to stand by as the 19th century Serbian Orthodox church they had taken care of was torched, the Serb couple now live in a shipping container in the enclave of Gracanica, south of Pristina. In the past month, successive international delegations have urged the Trajkovics and 130,000 other members of the Serb minority living in Kosovo to participate in this week's elections for the Kosovo Assembly, the provisional local government. But the Trajkovics, like most other Serbs, want no part...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: A Little Local Poll or The Birth of a Nation? | 10/17/2004 | See Source »

...GRACANICA, Bosnia—Even to me, an unctuous parishioner, making a pilgrimage has always seemed to be a phenomenal waste of time. Upon hearing that the Pope was coming to Bosnia, I was at first apprehensive. The logistics of seeing the Holy Father are not simple, and he had decided to speak in Banja Luka, the capital of the Republika Srpska, a locale markedly hostile to Catholics and Muslims in Bosnia...

Author: By Travis R. Kavulla, | Title: The Pilgrimage | 7/11/2003 | See Source »

Planning routes is impossible here as well. Gracanica is, more or less, my homebase—a Muslim-dominated town about five minutes from the Serb-controlled area of Bosnia. But in order to get to Banja Luka and the Pope, not even the most innocuous parishioner can follow the straight-shot from Gracanica. Instead, a side-trip to find some Catholic traveling companions is necessary; in this case, I was told about the existence of a hold-out cove in nearby Dubrave. Arriving outside the supposed Franciscan monastery here, one can see a faint yellow line surrounding the area?...

Author: By Travis R. Kavulla, | Title: The Pilgrimage | 7/11/2003 | See Source »

That said, my return to Gracanica was not without some cool Papal loot including a guidebook to Catholicism in Bosnian, a bona fide Bosnian flag and a bright yellow hat decorated with pictures of the Pope. Sunny as it was, I thought about wearing this hat into Gracanica before realizing the emblem would not likely sit well in a town filled with minarets, where vandalizing the old Orthodox Church is a favorite area hobby. The Pope had come on a mission of reconciliation and peace. What I’d seen were fervored Catholic Bosnians waving Croatian flags, a great...

Author: By Travis R. Kavulla, | Title: The Pilgrimage | 7/11/2003 | See Source »

...dozen more seriously injured when the bus in which they were traveling was torn apart by a remote-controlled bomb buried in a drainage ditch. The bus was part of a convoy of five vehicles driving under armed nato escort from the border with Serbia to the town of Gracanica, where the Serbs had planned to visit the graves of their ancestors. Two Swedish armored personnel carriers passed over the 50-100-kg explosive device before it was detonated from about 1 km away, U.N. officials said. Violence against Serbs has become commonplace in Kosovo and is now driven less...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: World Watch | 2/26/2001 | See Source »

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