Word: grotta
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Dates: during 1980-1989
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...chard and a mellow stew of apples and pears; and roseate medallions of venison with wild mushrooms and a cream-lightened game sauce. Only the spaetzle are too dry, and the classic Swiss potato pancake, roesti, lacks the , characteristic crispness. Nearby is the stunning Milanese postmodern setting at La Grotta. Avoid its overly creamy concoctions and bizarre combinations of meat and shellfish in favor of more traditional pastas and simply sauteed veal or fish dishes...
Chia's bulgy operatic figures pose like Michelangelos and flourish their tiny daggers at frantic women. He will take a tourist postcard view of the Grotta Azzurra in Capri, render it big, add a floating Chagall girl upside down, add a few written phrases in the manner of '20s Mird, and title the whole pasticcio thus: In Strange and Gloomy Waters If a White Dot Shines If a Child Jumps I Will Approach Her Flight, 1979. Chia's visions may not be very deep, but nobody could accuse him of having a defective swizzle stick...
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