Word: gu
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Dates: during 1970-1979
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...enjoy a memorable meal that contains only 500 calories instead of the 3,000 or more that tradition demands. No longer, as the old adage had it, need a Frenchman dig his grave with a fork. The blasphemer is an impish, outgoing, pint-sized ex-pastry chef named Michel Guérard, 42, who has invented la cuisine minceur-the cuisine of slimness...
...describes it as a weight-loss diet whose user can shed up to 5 lbs. a week. Guérard is building on the culinary ideology of la nouvelle cuisine, which began to transform grande cuisine some ten years ago. The high priest of the new way was Paul Bocuse, who brought to French cooking a new emphasis on freshness and simplicity (TIME, April 9, 1973)-and in 1975 received the Legion of Honor from President Giscard d'Estaing. The orgiastic bouffe-meals that would consume long hours of relentless, if not hoggish stuffing of the gullet...
...Piano. As a consequence-of his waist-not, want-not approach, Guérard today commands the hottest "piano" (as professional chefs call their stoves) in the trendy, fiercely competitive world of grande cuisine. After only 1% years of operation, the Restaurant Michel Guérard at the spa in Eugenie-les-Bains near Lourdes is about to receive a top rating of 19 points in this year's edition of the Guide Gault-Millau, France's sprightliest food publication. (The spa also has a gourmand menu for the calorie-careless.) The more conservative and authoritative Guide Michelin...
...simplicity of minceur fare lies neither in its preparation nor its expense. Guérard has meticulously searched out a dozen farmers who supply his vegetables, including one who delivers nothing but green beans. All the ingredients in his sauce base must be chopped up to the size of peas in order to increase the cooking surface for the fast, dry heating he gives them. "I mix my vegetables together the way a painter mixes colors-until he obtains the exact shade that he wants," says Guérard in one of his favorite painting metaphors. But it is deliciously...
Marriage. Altogether, the master of minceur has perfected some 150 low-calorie dishes. He admits that some French specialties simply do not have a minceur equivalent-calf s liver, for example, dries out when cooked a la vapeur, and extravagances like foie gras are obviously not duplicable. Guérard's extraordinary accomplishment has been to create something close to a parallel French cuisine. Says Dr. Georges Halpern, vice president of the French Gastronomical Medical Society: "Guérard has a genius for satisfying the upper part of the body-the tongue, eyes and mind -without filling...