Word: guanabo
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Dates: during 1990-1999
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...Santa Maria del Mar and get back to moving down the coast. Minutes later we pull over for two girls, each carrying a cake, each about 20, giggling to themselves in the back seat. Sisters? No, just friends. They're on their way home, to the next town, Guanabo. We pass a photo shoot, by the water: a skeletal blond woman, a photographer, a band of Cuban men, grinning in matching shirts, all standing in front of a mid-'50s Chevy, powder blue. We all wonder who the model is. Anyone we know? The girls giggle more. We're suddenly...
...drop the cake-bearing girls on the corner just past Guanabo's main drag and pick up a much older woman, 60 or so, who's been visiting her mother and needs to go just a little ways out of town. Ten minutes later--ĦAqui, Aqui!--she gets out. She smiles thank-you, and we smile goodbye--and again we're empty. We don't like to be empty. Through the Cuban countryside we feel ashamed to have the back seat unpeopled--all this room we have, all this fuel. It's getting dark, and as the roads...
...three days the weather achieved what Clinton could not, stemming the tide of rafters. On the beach at Guanabo, east of Havana, Saturday night's forecast is for 15-ft. waves and more rain. The balseros along the shore use their time to work on their rafts, dream, complain. Jorge Luis, 36, introduces his raft's crew. "Just because we're discontented, we're considered antisocial," he says. "But in fact we're all professionals. Cuba is like a prison these days. You work one month to eat one day. You . . . " And then he pauses and smiles, surveying one raft...
Elsewhere, however, the government let its guard down. On beaches and in port towns up and down the Cuban coast, in Guanabo and in Jaimanitas, the sea was suddenly an open frontier. Many Cubans slipped out of the bays and rivers on their motorized private boats, with entire families on board, for a relatively comfortable crossing. But from the vantage point of the seawall in Miramar, Havana's tree-lined suburb, 30 to 40 inner tubes could be seen setting off by moonlight...
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