Word: gucci
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...idea for the line and the store came to Ford after he left the Gucci Group in 2004. "I started buying clothing for myself, but everything was too trendy or the fabric or the cut wasn't right, so I had things made in London," he explains. But Ford found the Savile Row experience "too dry" and "not what I imagine men fantasize about when they fantasize about luxurious clothing...
...luxury business, a simple silhouette is not necessarily a natural fit. Houses like Gucci and Dior--where the signature is often spelled out in over-the-top details on snakeskin handbags or horse-bit-studded shoes and lavish, Vegas-style embroidery--appear to be allergic to sobriety. Gucci designer Frida Giannini turned to the 1940s and the gunmetal-gray palette of wartime heroines like photographer Lee Miller. For Dior, John Galliano tried on a reverential perspective, paying homage to giant clients like Ava Gardner with beaded satin entrance makers. In both cases, their studied opulence seemed to miss this moment...
Three and a half years ago, McCartney took her quest to Yves Saint Laurent Beauté, which, like her eponymous label, is owned by the Gucci Group. Maggie Ciafardini, CEO and managing director of the U.S. division of YSL Beauté, admits that what the fashion designer had in mind presented unique challenges: "What was key for Stella was to show that you could have gain without pain, and it was indeed a challenge for the R&D team to develop luxurious textures without any petrochemicals or chemical preservatives. Some products are particularly difficult to formulate, and the research and development took...
Silver Streak This page: Gucci leather clutch with Lucite and silver plaque ($950, gucci.com) Opposite page, from top: Belle by Sigerson Morrison silver bow flat ($260, sigersonmorrison.com) Roger Vivier Ballerine Chips ($525, 212-861-5371); Sigerson Morrison perforated flat ($345, sigersonmorrison.com) Bally Lumia ($295, bally.com) Ralph Lauren Collection Brigita skimmer ($395, polo.com) Oscar de la Renta patent runway flat ($450, Oscar de la Renta boutiques...
...What's really worrisome is that Beijing's impotence in this area reflects a similar inability to enforce its will on wayward local authorities in a whole range of crucial areas. If the central government can't stop the sale of Gucci knock-off handbags around the corner from its own enforcement office, how can they stop factories poisoning the drinking water tens of millions of its citizens depend on a thousand miles away? It's a scary thought for the Chinese and the outside world...