Word: gucci
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...course, reviving a failed venture is dicey at any time--nearly a third of bankrupt companies undergo multiple reorganizations--let alone during the sharpest economic slowdown in a decade. And too much licensing can kill even the toniest brand's cachet, as overexposed names from Calvin Klein to Gucci can unhappily attest...
...apparent at the recent haute couture shows in Paris. The big show of the season should have been Givenchy's. It was 28-year-old Welshman Julien Macdonald's turn to try to revamp the legendary house after enfant terrible Alexander McQueen quit to build his own brand with Gucci Group. Macdonald, who once designed knitwear for McQueen, played it safe. Very safe. Macdonald makes dull Paris debut, said London's Independent. The collection was lovely, but not ground-breaking. It looked like a job application for a couturier. Macdonald seemed to be saying, "I can do beading...
Ford, 39, born in Texas, raised in New Mexico and aged in New York City and Europe, has been on the whitecap of--or indeed, his splashes have created--just about every fashion wave since his Fall 1995 collection for Gucci. That was the show that brought about a rapprochement between the stylish and the '70s, reacquainting humanity with velvet hip huggers and satin shirts in a way that allowed us to see an inner beauty or relevance we had somehow overlooked for nigh on two decades. Ford gave that silhouette's androgyny a new spark, suggesting that being located...
...Ford's chief assets as a designer. He won't be nailed down to one look, one sex, one cut or even one couture house--at least not for long. He's an American whose vision glares over one of the largest European fashion empires. As creative director of Gucci Group, he designs eight collections a year (for Gucci in London and YSL Rive Gauche in Paris), plus their cash cows, the accessories, shuttling between the two ateliers on the Eurostar. He also oversees the design of new stores and the ad campaigns for all the group's beauty...
...awkward business, generating desire. Ford has made it into an art form. When he started designing for Gucci, the label had been almost comically cheesy, a synonym for tasteless excess. Now it's the definition of sizzle. There are people whose voices still grow hushed when they talk about the white dresses with strategically positioned cutouts from his Gucci Fall 1996 collection. And his two collections for Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche and one for YSL men's have been particularly cunning. Because Yves Saint Laurent himself still designs the couture line and because of the reverence in which fashion...