Word: guerlains
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...coined a neat line about Indian dress ("Pink is the navy blue of India"), started to organize this show more than a year and a half ago, and her trademarks are abundant. There are atmospheric tapes of Indian court music, elaborate furniture, and the scent of a specially made Guerlain sandalwood to orchestrate the clothes. This kind of show-biz gilding draws the crowds, but the hues and density and drapings of the clothes, the impact of their easy and erotic majesty, will linger much longer than the perfume...
...children's costumes, representing thousands of yards of fabric coaxed into stunning shape with a skill and diligence that today cannot be had anywhere outside of major surgery. The olfactory nerve, meantime, gets a good working over from L'Heure Bleue, a Guerlain scent that is sprayed every morning throughout the galleries. The senses reel. They are meant to. This is not art-if clothes may be called art at all-meant to be pondered and absorbed. This is curatorial show business of a particularly shrewd order. With the humble addition of a light show and the sale...
...French, Opium is a strong scent; it thus follows in the style of the brash and popular American perfumes, like Revlon's Charlie and Jontue, that are edging out long dominant French brands as the leading sellers in West Germany, Britain and Switzerland, among other markets. Tellingly, Guerlain's Nahema and many other new French scents are potent perfumes in the U.S. style...
...hype was pure Madison Avenue, though the locale was Paris. First there was a gushing news release. "Since ancient times," it declared, "perhaps since the Garden of Eden, woman has communed with perfume. In creating Nahema today, Guerlain adds a prestigious page to this eternal dialogue." Then came an "intime" press dinner for 40 or so at Maxim's, followed on another evening by a glittering soiree near the Place de la Concorde, where 650 guests were plied with champagne as the new scent being introduced by the doyenne of French perfume houses filled...
...Guerlain spent more than $10 million to launch its first new perfume since 1975, and it will doubtless make a similar splash when it brings the pricey ($85 per oz.) fragrance to the U.S. next year. Nahema's debut was one of the biggest barrages in a war of dollars and scents being waged by French perfumers this fall: more than 20 new fragrances are coming out, and most will carry the names of well-known fashion houses, including Balenciaga, Courreges and Balmain...