Word: halston
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Dates: during 1990-1999
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...Were Halston alive today, he would probably sense a chilling deja vu in all this business uncertainty. His label's demise was precipitated by the launching of the Halston III line he created for J.C. Penney in 1983. Not only were sales disappointing, but upscale establishments like Bergdorf Goodman, spurning a line that was also available in middle-class department stores, pulled the whole label off their racks. After that debacle Halston's empire collapsed, and he eventually lost control of his name. The label remained dormant until three years ago, when Tropic Tex decided to start it up again...
...piece matching outfits with their own carry bag in five minutes on QVC. "They were $79.95," says Duke. "You couldn't even walk into a store and get two pieces for that." With the same optimistic exuberance, Duke picked up a phone and sold himself for the job at Halston after reading in the papers that the label was being resurrected...
Other people called to offer their services, including former Halston staff members. "We met with them and eventually hired some," says Duke. "I knew it would either be great or not so great, but they really took me under their wing. I learned a lot from them. They learned a few new tricks from me." Five former Halston employees, including the head draper and the head seamstress, now work with Duke, providing a sense of continuity between the old and new Halston houses. But Duke insists that he is not trying to be the designer reincarnated. "I'm so completely...
Happily, Duke's aesthetic dovetails with Halston's. Like his predecessor, Duke is comfortable with knits and fabrics that drape the body in what he calls a "neo-Grecian look." His clothes are glamorous and luxurious but not outre. They have an American smartness and good sense about them without being dowdy or frumpy. His fall '98 collection featured intricately beaded gowns, skirts and tops, often paired with a coat or sweater of the same color in a softer fabric. It's a look in which almost anyone shines. Marin Hopper, fashion director of Elle, thinks Duke...
Assuming Catterton can keep the cash flowing, Halston's prospects look bright. The company has an impressive lineup of licensees, the press and retailers love the clothes, and the label enjoys sterling-silver brand-name recognition. But only time will tell whether Halston's future is as good as its seams...