Word: halston
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...impressed critics with its glamour when Loris Azzaro died of cancer and left the creative responsibility to her. Thanks to Seward's '70s-inspired vision and the increasing demand for dazzling red carpet-bound eveningwear, the Azzaro look?silk jersey columns with dramatic crystal beading, kind of a Parisian Halston?has made a great comeback, turning up on the likes of Nicole Kidman, Diane Lane and Naomi Watts. Come 2005, Seward plans to expand beyond the red carpet, introducing swimwear in addition to cashmere separates and costume jewelry. Perfect for a weekend in Cannes...
DIED. ELEANOR LAMBERT, 100, a.k.a. the Empress of Seventh Avenue, who as a publicist championed American fashion designers such as Bill Blass and Halston; in New York City. In the early 1940s, when Paris was deemed the industry's sole center, she organized press previews in New York, a precursor to Fashion Week; established the International Best-Dressed List; and nudged reluctant magazine editors to cover American designers. In 1962 she founded the Council of Fashion Designers of America...
Other people called to offer their services, including former Halston staff members. "We met with them and eventually hired some," says Duke. "I knew it would either be great or not so great, but they really took me under their wing. I learned a lot from them. They learned a few new tricks from me." Five former Halston employees, including the head draper and the head seamstress, now work with Duke, providing a sense of continuity between the old and new Halston houses. But Duke insists that he is not trying to be the designer reincarnated. "I'm so completely...
Happily, Duke's aesthetic dovetails with Halston's. Like his predecessor, Duke is comfortable with knits and fabrics that drape the body in what he calls a "neo-Grecian look." His clothes are glamorous and luxurious but not outre. They have an American smartness and good sense about them without being dowdy or frumpy. His fall '98 collection featured intricately beaded gowns, skirts and tops, often paired with a coat or sweater of the same color in a softer fabric. It's a look in which almost anyone shines. Marin Hopper, fashion director of Elle, thinks Duke...
Assuming Catterton can keep the cash flowing, Halston's prospects look bright. The company has an impressive lineup of licensees, the press and retailers love the clothes, and the label enjoys sterling-silver brand-name recognition. But only time will tell whether Halston's future is as good as its seams...