Word: halston
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...HALSTON'S REVENGE--ULTRASUEDE IS BACK...
There has always been an intimacy between powerful editors and their favorite powerful designers: legendary Vogue editor in chief Diana Vreeland with Hubert de Givenchy and Halston, the quid with the quo. But the magazine recession of the early 1990s, which intensified the scramble for ad pages everywhere, made the cozy relationships even cozier. During that period, design companies amassed even more advertising clout. The economic pressure has eased lately-for instance, ad pages through May are up 16% for Elle and 9% for Glamour over last year. Still, the compromises remain...
With Andy's help, the hip crowd of the '70s became just a cocaine-addled update on the old cafe society. The entourage admitted through the velvet rope at Studio 54 would be Liza and Halston and Bianca, and so on down to -- why not? -- Roy Cohn, the aide-de-camp of Senator Joe McCarthy and arguably Satan's first lieutenant. The meaning of hip was reconfigured to embrace the greed and swank and snobbery it used to reject. It would be summed up later in a song by Billy Joel...
...greatest impact was on style. She revolutionized dress for a female public figure. She loved slacks and shorts and riding habits. What she did not do was overdress -- ever. Gone were the klutzy handbags, the fussy hats, the grim shoes, the clashing colors and unphotogenic prints. The young Halston made her the famous pillbox hat. For the rest she looked toward Paris -- Jackie was a frank Francophile. The American designer Oleg Cassini made her copies of current couture, and Jackie encouraged people to believe she bought American. But she also shopped quietly at Givenchy and Balenciaga. Because her elegant taste...
...them loud. On the floor, there's a fog machine and a stack of the official Adams House "We're All Gay and We're Coming to Get You" t-shirts Thomas designed. On the left, Thomas hang his dresses--a clingy purple Betsy Johnson, a turquoise suede Halston circa 1972. Everything in the closet is distinctive ("I love wearing things no one would think of wearing."), comfortable ("It's all about comfort.."), and cheap("..it's all about discounts...