Word: ham
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Dates: during 1980-1989
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Chowing Down. Warmer traditions do survive. In the small Mississippi town of Indianola, there were plenty of home-cooked casseroles and ham and turkey platters at the rehearsal dinner before the May 24 wedding of Ann Delinda Thompson and Kenneth Orlando Thomas, both 25. The food was prepared by friends and neighbors and certified good enough to compete with any catered affair. Even the cake was made locally, although it was the kind of extravaganza that looks like an honors project at a baking school: three small cakes surrounded a central four-layer job, with stairways from level to level...
...make up so large and diverse a culinary discipline. Passions run high in defense of personal favorites and the proper way to make them: Should the bread that holds tuna salad be white or rye, plain or toasted? Is mayonnaise, Russian dressing, butter or mustard the correct spread for ham or turkey or roast beef? Does lettuce have any place at all in a sandwich of sliced meat, and if so, should the lettuce ever be iceberg? The Easterner regards the California predilection for mayonnaise on hamburgers as strictly an aberration, and to true New Yorkers who order street-corner...
...concentrated on the gaming table. This sort of convenience has delighted sandwich fans ever since. Extolling Montagu's contribution in Getting Even, Woody Allen wrote, "He freed mankind from the hot lunch. We owe him so much." Other countries dally with sandwiches--France with its croque-monsieur (a grilled ham-and-cheese sandwich), the Danes with their open-faced smorrebrod, which require knives and forks, the Greeks and Middle Easterners with their pita pockets full of lamb or falafel--but only in America has the sandwich been developed to its full potential...
...patty made famous by fast-food chains or the thicker chopped-steak version, epitomized by the specimen at Acorn on Oak, a bar and grill in Chicago. Most familiar among workaday sandwiches are the coffee-shop regulars: bacon, lettuce and tomato, tuna or egg salad, the classic combo of ham and Swiss cheese, grilled cheese and bacon and the lavish club, a three-slice pileup with two "decks" of filling that at its purest includes sliced chicken, bacon, tomato and lettuce. Less orthodox but currently more fashionable in New York City is the $22 club sandwich at the American restaurant...
...heft. They have spawned several American variations, known as submarines, torpedoes, grinders, hoagies and, in the South, po' boys (all the ingredients a poor--and hungry--boy can fit into one sandwich). These in turn are the forerunners of the New Orleans muffuletta, a round hero full of Italian ham, salami, mortadella, provolone cheese and an oily olive, pepper and vegetable salad that is the specialty of the city's Central Grocery. But the ultimate hero is the six-foot log made famous by the Manhattan cafeteria- restaurant Manganaro's Hero Boy. Designed to be cut into individual portions...