Word: hamnett
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Dates: during 1980-1989
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...Hamnett's influence is strong all over the fashion range, from the well- crafted intricacies of Marithe and Francois Girbaud to the heavy assimilations of Go Silk, a new American line that seems to have been entirely inspired by Hamnett's deft work with lining fabric. "I was called 'possibly the most copied designer working today' in the Observer," Hamnett reflects, managing to sound proud and a touch rueful at the same time. Her clothes are available all around the U.S., but the fullest range can be found at the designer's showcase store on London's Brompton Road. Originally...
...likely that Hamnett picked up some of her more exotic expletives during a girlhood that was spent around the military. Her father was a British air attache, and she and her family shuttled between European air bases and embassies, where she played at being "mademoiselle on the reception line dying to go home and loosen her corselet." Everything got loosened up at St. | Martin's School of Art. Hamnett married, disastrously. With a friend, she had started her first fashion company in 1969, but it went bust, in the wake of a bitter divorce, in 1975. "I eventually lost everything...
Such success brings a little creature comfort for Hamnett, Sam and young William (born in 1981), like the getaway cottage the family keeps in Majorca. It also permits the designer an occasional indulgence (her North London office, walled round with papier-mache rock, looks like Plato's cave built from a prefab kit) and a healthy dose of esthetic restiveness. "I try to be creative and earn money at it," she says. "But it's like being a painter and having a gun pointed at you. I envy Marcel Duchamp for just stopping. Though he had a rich wife." Hamnett...
...also still making waves. Concerned about pressing issues of public health, she says, "We're thinking of having Katharine Hamnett condoms, like peppermints, in the shops." She is also making boxer shorts with special condom pockets, while Bertelsen, wary of a "campaign about AIDS," worries about her "going too far." That, of course, is the compass point at which Hamnett is perpetually fixed. She has, indeed, come up with a new T shirt for these dire days (frankie says use condoms), but confesses that she did have to compromise a bit. "I wanted to do the pope says use condoms...
Britain' s spirited designer Katharine Hamnett captures better than anyone else the roughed- up elegance of the everyday...