Word: hams
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Dates: during 1960-1969
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Nicknamed "the Ham" because he likes to pose for pictures, the copper-toned colt impresses everybody with his appearance as well as his record. His breeder, Leslie Combs II of Spendrift Farm in Lexington, Ky., raves: "He has looks. He has speed. He has courage. And, most important, he has done everything right from the very start." Majestic Prince has certainly done right by Combs, who sold him as a yearling in 1967 for the then record price of $250,000-to Frank McMahon, a Vancouver, B.C., industrialist...
...measuring cup and knocks Fanny Farmer for her chemistry-class precision. But how are his viewers going to know that a Kerr "short slurp" equals one fluid ounce or that "one glug" means one and a half? Julia Child, appalled by his use of canned asparagus and packaged ham slices, writes his program off as "a desecration of fine cooking." He is producing "a personality show or a ladies' show," she says. "He's a tall, handsome, well-proportioned young man, and many women like to look at handsome...
...those days, the few white connoisseurs of ham hocks and black-eyed peas had to go to Watts or Chicago's South Side to get them. To supply today's faddists, soul food is moving out of the ghetto...
...discards from the big house on the hill," Negro slaves-as well as many poor white tenant farmers-learned to make edible meals out of the vegetables and meats that their masters regarded as waste. Turnips went up the hill; turnip greens stayed down. Whites slaughtered pigs for the ham, loin, bacon and spare ribs; Negroes made do with the pigs' feet ("trotters"), knuckles, tails, ears, snouts, neck, backbones, hocks, stomach (hog maw) and other innards. Today, as 200 years ago, the true "stone soul" dish is chitterlings, pronounced "chitlins." These are the small intestines of a pig, boiled...
Chewing on a chitterling, even after it has been carefully cleaned and cooked, is rather like chewing on a football bladder. So soul-food restaurants that cater to whites rarely carry chitlins on their menus, instead stick to more conventional dishes, such as shrimp gumbo, "smothered" pork chops and ham hocks. Even those have little appeal to a gourmet palate. Soul food is often fatty, overcooked and underseasoned. Vegetables are boiled with fatback for so long that their taste and nutritional value go up in steam; meats have to be sprinkled liberally with salt and pepper to give the eater...