Word: harissa
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...setting is modest, too. Pine chairs and tables at one end of the barn; at the other, a deli selling more Dangereux delights, such as home-made breads and harissa mayonnaise. Every so often, the chef himself will emerge in surfer shorts and flip-flops. No longer dangereux to your wallet, but lethal to the notion that haute cuisine has to be haughty. www.thefoodbarn.co.za
...Peter Gordon serves Turkish food with a twist: dolma (vine leaves traditionally stuffed with rice) are wrapped around grilled halloumi and served with a sweet chili sauce; grilled octopus, a local seafood classic, comes with Asian-style sweet and sour miso sauce; and local lamb is accompanied by Tunisian harissa...
...city of Marrakech. There is no restaurant, but there is a resident chef, and Bajia is your teacher. By the time you leave, you will never again make couscous from a box but will have learned to roll it (do not let it clump) sensually in your fingers. Your harissa (a fiery blend of cumin, garlic and red chilis) will be spiced perfectly, and cooking up sumptuous masterpieces in a peaked clay tagine will be your new dinner-party staple...
From the hot meze, the Karentika ($3.50), a chickpea custard in a pie crust, is uniformly bland. It comes smothered, however, under a wonderfully piquant harissa, a spicy condiment made by pounding chili peppers in a mortar with salt, olive oil, and spices. Harissa is one of the foundations of all North African cooking, and it’s excellent at Baraka Café. You’d be well-advised to order harissa alone as a meze ($3.50), and forgo the Karentika. The Zaatar Coca ($4.50)—a hand-stretched bread, grilled over a fire, then sprinkled...
...Elsewhere, the round-the-world tour continues with Caribbean appetizers, French cheeses and Indian desserts. In the Blue Room’s brave new world, Asian vegetables with soba noodles, ginger, soy and sesame ($17) can turn up next to braised lamb shank with dates and almonds, couscous and harissa ($22). This is not mere “American eclectic” or “world fusion,” but an attempt at true culinary globalization...
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