Word: harissa
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Dates: during 2002-2002
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From the hot meze, the Karentika ($3.50), a chickpea custard in a pie crust, is uniformly bland. It comes smothered, however, under a wonderfully piquant harissa, a spicy condiment made by pounding chili peppers in a mortar with salt, olive oil, and spices. Harissa is one of the foundations of all North African cooking, and it’s excellent at Baraka Café. You’d be well-advised to order harissa alone as a meze ($3.50), and forgo the Karentika. The Zaatar Coca ($4.50)—a hand-stretched bread, grilled over a fire, then sprinkled...
...Elsewhere, the round-the-world tour continues with Caribbean appetizers, French cheeses and Indian desserts. In the Blue Room’s brave new world, Asian vegetables with soba noodles, ginger, soy and sesame ($17) can turn up next to braised lamb shank with dates and almonds, couscous and harissa ($22). This is not mere “American eclectic” or “world fusion,” but an attempt at true culinary globalization...
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