Word: hartness
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...merchants of the midrange $400 business garment -- scrambling for a new look and a fresh idea. The trend is against them and so, for the moment, are the numbers. Hartmarx Corp., which owns middle-income retail stores like Wallachs in New York and Baskin in Chicago as well as Hart Schaffner & Marx, purveyors of off-the-peg businessman style for more than 100 years, has been enduring a three-year slump even though it retains an 11% share of the U.S. men's suit market. Brooks Brothers posted a 41% drop in operating profits for the past fiscal year...
While they have been drifting away from their former shape, men have also been toying with new colors. The serviceable old grays and blues still predominate, but "you see more and more taupes on the commuter trains in Chicago," reports Kenneth Hoffman, chief executive of Hart Schaffner & Marx. "Now you can have an olive suit in six different shades." Can, and more...
...high end of men's fashion prospers and the middle ground looks for new style and stability, the only fashion constant is flux. Bilzerian talks about suits in shades of aubergine and pine green; even Hart Schaffner & Marx's Hoffman waxes evangelical about pleated pants as "a major fashion direction." To hear him tell it, it's only a matter of time until the Hartmarx man looks like a second cousin to the Duke of Windsor: "British is hot right now. You're going to see more 11-in. side vents, ticket pockets . . ." Could it be the beginning of another...
...Wilhelm (Associate Art Directors); Stefano Arata, Kenneth B. Smith (Assistant Art Directors); Joseph Aslaender, David Drapkin, Victoria Nightingale, Leah M. Purcell, Lisa Sampson, Nomi Silverman, Lisa C. Tremaine, Dennis Wheeler (Designers) Traffic: John P. Dowd (Chief); Eugene Tick, Paul Hilzinger Maps and Charts: Paul J. Pugliese (Chief); Steven D. Hart, Joe Lertola, E. Noel McCoy, Nino Telak, Deborah L. Wells Administration: Carrie A. Zimmerman
News Editor for This Issue: Joseph R. Palmore '91 Night Editors: Melissa R. Hart '91 Brian R. Hecht '92 Matthew M. Hoffman '91 Feature Editor: Jonathan S. Cohn '91 Editorial Editor: Joshua M. Sharfstein '91 Sports Editors: Peter Rosenthal '93 Michael D. Stankiewicz '90-'91 Photo Editor: Zachary M. Schrag '92 Business Editor: Raymond B.B. Nomizu '91 Copy Editor: Katherine C. Mayer...