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Pete Cabrinha had ridden killer waves before, but this time, as he surfed down the face of a giant swell rolling in over the notorious Jaws reef off Maui, Hawaii, last January, he couldn't find the bottom. "It was growing in front of me and growing behind me, so it felt like I wasn't getting anywhere," recalls Cabrinha, 42, a veteran surfer from Hawaii. There had already been 10 "horrific wipeouts" that morning. As Cabrinha was gaining speed going down the wave, its breaking lip was closing in fast from behind. People watching from the shore began shouting...
...surfing, documented in Riding Giants, a film directed by Stacy Peralta that opened nationwide last week, goes back a half-century. Its pioneer is Greg Noll, a stocky Californian nicknamed the Bull, who, with a small group of friends, began surfing big swells off the North Shore of Oahu, Hawaii, in the 1950s and '60s, riding waves up to 30 ft. high. But with the boards and techniques available then, it was not possible to go much higher. In the '70s and '80s surfers instead sought to conquer challenges on smaller waves with a range of turning and tube-riding...
Born in California but raised in Hawaii from age 2, Hamilton, 40, became the acknowledged dragon slayer of surf--a glamorous outsize personality who tested the limits in everything he did, often as camera shutters whirred. A thrill junkie, he surfed the highest waves, bungee jumped from a 700-ft. bridge and broke the European speed record for windsurfing. He even stunt surfed in the opening sequence of the 2002 James Bond film Die Another Day. But since childhood Hamilton had been mesmerized by the huge outer reef breaks that appeared after some Pacific winter storms. He regularly surfed...
With surf forecasting in place and the new tow-in technique being steadily refined, the records have started to pile up: in 1998 Ken Bradshaw from Sunset Beach in Hawaii rode the first wave over 60 ft.; in 2002 Brazilian Carlos Burle surfed a 68-ft. swell; and this year Cabrinha reached the 70-ft. threshold. Sharp says storm patterns have been relatively subdued in the past few years, but he thinks that when the next El Nino warming of the Pacific happens, adding 20% to 30% to the power of storms likely to impact prime surfing sites, surfers will...
...President who did terrific things for our country. I absolutely deplore and abominate, however, the person that Clinton is. And I know the meaning of is. Anything for which Clinton should have been respected has been overshadowed by his lascivious behavior and abuse of power. DAVID PARK BROWN Kailua, Hawaii...