Word: hazan
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Dates: during 1980-1989
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...simmering sauce of endives, smoked pancetta and double cream fills the wood-beamed Venetian kitchen with its aroma. Bits of baby lamb are soaking up the flavor of juniper berries and white wine. Strings of homemade tonnarelli are drying nearby. Standing over her restaurant-size range, Marcella Hazan looks with mock astonishment at six blushing students. "You don't cook? What do you do? Starve?" It is her standard line when Americans complain that they don't have time to prepare real meals. "I despair," she says, waving a sauce-laden wooden spoon...
...Hazan has good reason not to despair. In the past two decades, Hazan, 65, a former biology researcher, has done more to help refine America's Spaghetti O taste buds than any other Italian cook. Her first effort, in 1973, The Classic Italian Cookbook, is the definitive textbook on Italian cooking in America. Craig Claiborne once proclaimed her a "national treasure," and Julia Child calls her "my mentor in all things Italian." James Beard traveled to Italy for Hazan's cooking class. She preached the virtues of extra-virgin olive oil long before the Mediterranean diet became a health...
...Hazan, a native of Cesenatico who has doctorates in geology-paleontology and biology, confesses that she learned to cook only after marrying Italian- American Victor Hazan in 1955. It was a struggle at first. After working as a biological researcher at New York City's Guggenheim Foundation by day, she would rush home each night to fix dinner. American supermarkets shocked her: "The food was dead, wrapped in plastic coffins." She became a professional cook by accident in 1969, when friends in a Chinese cooking class asked for Italian recipes. (Her fame was sealed by Claiborne, who came to lunch...
With her best-selling books and private cooking lessons in her Venetian kitchen, Marcella Hazan makes the case for food that "matters...
...testing were a risotto with squid, shrimp and clams, and a rosemary-and-sage-scented shoulder of veal, encrusted with bread crumbs and Parmesan after being braised. Pears simmered in red wine and accented with bay leaves proved to be the properly restorative dessert, and a scoop of Hazan's lemon ice cream added to the pear did no harm...