Word: hazan
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...simmering sauce of endives, smoked pancetta and double cream fills the wood-beamed Venetian kitchen with its aroma. Bits of baby lamb are soaking up the flavor of juniper berries and white wine. Strings of homemade tonnarelli are drying nearby. Standing over her restaurant-size range, Marcella Hazan looks with mock astonishment at six blushing students. "You don't cook? What do you do? Starve?" It is her standard line when Americans complain that they don't have time to prepare real meals. "I despair," she says, waving a sauce-laden wooden spoon...
...Hazan has good reason not to despair. In the past two decades, Hazan, 65, a former biology researcher, has done more to help refine America's Spaghetti O taste buds than any other Italian cook. Her first effort, in 1973, The Classic Italian Cookbook, is the definitive textbook on Italian cooking in America. Craig Claiborne once proclaimed her a "national treasure," and Julia Child calls her "my mentor in all things Italian." James Beard traveled to Italy for Hazan's cooking class. She preached the virtues of extra-virgin olive oil long before the Mediterranean diet became a health...
Modesty -- in short supply this year -- is the enticing ingredient of three new cookbooks. The authors have all received wide recognition as cooking teachers, and their recipes are both delicious and reliable. Marcella's Italian Kitchen (Knopf; $22.95) is the third book by the redoubtable Marcella Hazan, a no-nonsense instructor who has conducted classes in New York City, Bologna and now in Venice. As before, she advocates the one right way to do a particular task or dish, usually with her old reliable utensils. "If I had to choose, I would sooner give up my food processor, because what...
...testing were a risotto with squid, shrimp and clams, and a rosemary-and-sage-scented shoulder of veal, encrusted with bread crumbs and Parmesan after being braised. Pears simmered in red wine and accented with bay leaves proved to be the properly restorative dessert, and a scoop of Hazan's lemon ice cream added to the pear did no harm...
...making pasta fresca, fatt'a mano (freshly made by hand). At classes like the one taught by Arlene Battifarano at Manhattan's New School, flour-smeared students happily echo, "Fold, push, press, turn! Fold, push, press, turn!" as they attack alps of dough. Says Expert Marcella Hazan: "The warmth of the hand makes for elasticity and body more than any kind of machine...