Word: hazan
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Atlantic Releasing, dir. Jack Hazan and David Mingay...
...days this spring Betty's visiting luminary was Marcella Hazan, the most authoritative exponent of Italian cooking in the U.S. Her two three-hour classes, limited to 25 auditors at $50 each per class, were sold out almost instantly after they were announced. Some applicants had already attended the school that Hazan conducts each year from May to November in Bologna, Italy's gastronomical heartland. Most are Belle Pomme regulars, eager to branch out into the mysteries of pasta, prosciutto, parmigiana, pesce and polio, not to mention savoring Marcella's gelato spazza camino (Scotch-laced vanilla ice cream chimneysweep style...
There is talk of Cuisinarts and couscous and knives as the group waits for the class to start. Then everybody scribbles away on a clipboard while Hazan ticks off on two big wall maps the different gastronomical and geographical regions of Italy ("We have 6,000 basic recipes"), expounds the secrets of olive oil, flour and cow cheese, goat cheese and sheep cheese. As if photographing each step on their minds, the students crane forward to retain the maestra's skill in boning chicken breasts ("Save the skins!"), her hammering of scallopini, her preparation from scratch of four-egg pasta...
...class visibly cringes as Hazan, puffing on a Vantage, grandly sprays foodstuffs with salt from the box (exclaiming "wirrirriwump!") or dumps ingredients into the pan with a fine disregard for kilos, cups or spoonfuls. "I guess it's like poetry," sighed an English teacher in the class. "First you master the 14-line sonnet, then you go to free verse." Finally, the salivating students get to devour Hazan's three-course meals, washed down with Robert Mondavi's Napa Valley...
...food at home without household help. They range from sophisticated bees fins who have taken expensive courses on the Continent to young marrieds and a couple of high school students, one of whom is considering a career in cooking. Steve and Mary Stover treated each other to a Hazan class as a tenth-wedding-anniversary present. Several students say they regard cooking as a form of therapy. Indeed, one student suffering "a late 20s crisis" was actually referred to the school by her psychiatrist. A young real estate man, Steve Wittmann, became interested in sauces when he was living...