Word: heirlooms
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Dates: during 2000-2009
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...problem spending the equivalent of 400 items off McDonald's dollar-item menu on a dinner for two. Over the past few years, they've also turned paying more into a moral cause no right-thinking chef could argue against: free-range, local, sustainable, organic, hormone-free, heirloom, slow food. As a result, top chefs have had to increase their budgets to find the obscure variety of beet grown only by Shakers or the cow that has been massaged, seen Radiohead live and enjoyed Tantric sex before being slaughtered with love...
...just about taste. It's tied right into memory and the longing for the sensations of when we felt happiest or most loved. Suzanne Goin, chef at Los Angeles' Lucques and AOC, put a plate of ripe tomatoes with basil on her list even though she didn't eat heirloom tomatoes as a kid--her dad didn't like salad, so they never had any. But those tomatoes were served at the first staff meal she ate at Chez Panisse, site of her dream job. "My meal is sort of like the edible sound track to my life," says Goin...
...behind the cerebral abstraction of Noma's edible landscapes is the land itself. When I see heirloom curly sheep cropping the grass under the snow on Niels Stokholm's biodynamic dairy farm a short drive from Copenhagen, I suddenly understand that I am looking at last night's dessert, a minimalist "cannelloni" of frothy sheep's-milk mousse with a frozen granita made from sweet herbs and grass straight from the pasture. The connection between terroir and table just reached a whole new level. Forget caviar and Kobe beef and ruined designer shoes. Real luxury is being able to walk...
With our salad of burrata with heirloom tomatoes, Mascha poured Antipodes, a nearly mineral-free, lightly carbonated water from New Zealand, which, because of its neutral pH, tasted pleasantly sweet against the soft cheese. With my tagliatelle with ragout, I drank a medium-carbonated, high-calcium Italian water. We also had one water that flowed through volcanic rock (Hawaiian Springs), two from melted glaciers (Hawaii's Kona Deep and Canada's unpleasantly sour 10 Thousand BC) and water freshly bottled from Tasmanian rain (Tasmanian Rain). To my surprise, the waters did taste different. Or felt different. Buying an occasional bottle...
...critical former dean of the College, put it this way last year: “I suppose different people may see different symbols in that—students losing their places to administrative bureaucrats, the College being swallowed up by the University, or maybe the FAS selling an heirloom to pay the bills...