Word: heitzing
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Nearly every day at dawn, John Heitz falls a little bit in love. Leaning over a 150-lb. (70 kg) yellowfin tuna, the 55-year-old American, whose business is exporting fish, circles his forefinger around its deep eye socket. "Look how clear these eyes are." He traces the puncture where the fish was hooked, and the markings under its pectoral fin where it struggled on the line. "Sometimes," Heitz says, "I see a good tuna, and it looks better to me than a woman...
What has happened to our beloved U.S.? Sex and money seem to be the main things that matter. Aren't they symptoms of decadence? We in Europe are rattled as well as astonished. HANS-JACOB HEITZ Winterthur, Switzerland...
California winemakers are rather like an extended family, in which fierce competition to concoct a better Chardonnay seldom intrudes on friendship. These days, however, a territorial dispute is pitting neighbor against neighbor. "I am thoroughly opposed to slicing up the Napa Valley," declares winemaker Joe Heitz. "It is asinine, stupid and ridiculous...
What riles Joe Heitz involves a subject that mystifies many oenophiles, even though millions of marketing dollars are affected: American Viticultural Areas, often informally called appellations. Heitz is prominent among the winemakers who are fighting a proposal put forward by many of his neighboring vintners that would designate new AVAs within the Napa Valley. As the nation's most prestigious wine-producing area, the lush valley north of San Francisco is entitled to an AVA, which Napa's wine producers proudly display on their labels. But partly because the valley's vineyards have proliferated from 40 in the early 1970s...
Meanwhile, some vintners are searching for distinction in a different way by assigning their top wines proprietary names (the Clos du Bois vineyard's Marlstone, for example). Despite Heitz's Napa Valley pride, his lush, minty Cabernet Sauvignons (typical price: $40) are best known by the names of two farms where the grapes are grown, Martha's Vineyard and Bella Oaks. But for many growers whose wines lack the cachet of Heitz's, new AVAs represent profits and prestige...