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Like Le Bernardin, Palio is also in the Equitable Center, and its kitchen is the province of the one-star Italian chef Andrea Hellrigl (a.k.a. Andrea da Merano, an honorary nom de cuisine he enjoys), who owns the Villa Mozart, a trimly polished Jugendstil-designed hotel in Merano. He stirs the pasta pots for Operator Tony May, who masterminds Palio's spacious and vaguely Japanese- looking dining rooms. So far Hellrigl's esoteric offerings have been uneven. They may be as institutionally dull as his lackluster codfish with potatoes or the watery mushroom terrine or as wonderfully executed...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Food: Have Toque, Will Travel | 8/25/1986 | See Source »

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