Word: hemmed
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Dates: during 1980-1989
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Katya Mikhulskaya giggles as she shows off her outfit -- a red-and-gold- braid ed army jacket paired with a frilly white lace skirt -- then coquettishly pulls up her hem to reveal black knee-high jackboots. Mikhulskaya, 23, developed her theory of fashion from years of riding the Moscow metro, where she saw women wearing a tasteless hodgepodge because the state-controlled fashion industry had made it impossible for them to put together well-coordinated wardrobes. "When it comes to fashion in Moscow," she says, "a sense of humor is especially important." Her fellow designer, Katya Fillipova, 29, pokes...
...farmers who've come out to meet Willey are neither heretics nor hayseeds but businessmen in a carpeted irrigation-district boardroom. They hem and haw in their own argot. They are worried, for instance, about load-flow relationships: if the government sets stringent new standards on selenium in their runoff, they may need to dilute it with the very water Willey is proposing to buy. Life is terribly uncertain. The regulatory agencies, they observe, "just agreed that water runs downhill about two months ago." The farmers also have this uneasy feeling that the environmentalists want them to save water...
...established Italian manufacturer GIBO, which handles such successful lines as Jean-Paul Gaultier and Sybilla. Where the Dirker comes down heavy on prankishness, Sybilla tends to the winsome and the ingenious. Her clothes are mostly hand finished and full of little surprises, like tucks that form boxes or a hem that looks to have been pushed up for a hasty jump across a puddle...
Rejecting the mini and not knowing what to invest in, many women just wore their wardrobes for another season -- with perhaps a small hike at the hem. This summer very short lengths will continue to be seen. But for fall, when most women make their serious purchases, skimpy skirts seem a poor bet. In addition to the rebuff on principle, women shunned the mini for economic reasons. "Especially since the October crash, people are more cautious," says Karen Guthrie, 30, a title-insurance company manager in Los Angeles. "Now even yuppies have budgets." In a fit of fashion passion, Susan...
...however, continues on his own way as unerringly as Issey Miyake. This new collection is his 31st, but it abounds with so many notions about shape and fabric that it bursts open like a just discovered treasure chest. The waist rises on a short black leather skirt, but the hem falls irregularly. A raincoat is made of polyester that feels and falls like inked paper. One pantsuit in atomic-orange wool knit looks like a drill uniform for fashion insurrectionists. Another pantsuit in silk clings and flares in the jacket, rides the waist, then blossoms out in the cuffs, looking...