Word: hemstitch
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Calvin, Donna and Ralph: revered designers, handy with a hemstitch and all, but getting a bit long in the tooth (Calvin Klein is 60, Donna Karan's 54 and Ralph Lauren's 63). Why do people who have enough disposable income to drop $200 on a shirt let their parents' generation tell them how to dress? Perhaps because the next design oligarchy has not yet clearly emerged. But during Fashion Week in New York City last week, three younger voices made themselves heard over the fray. Marc Jacobs reimagined retro futurism with a bunch of nifty jumpers-and-tights looks...
...belted waist was in and so was the welt-seamed skirt that whirls like a skater's costume. Hemlines stayed put. The buyers' favorites were Givenchy's high bustline, soft-shouldered dresses and Balenciaga's short shrug jackets. A hemstitch away in popularity: Yves St. Laurent's "cowboy look" (sombreros, neckerchiefs), and Marc Bohan's Dior evening gowns that plunge front and back. Copies, adaptations and custom reproductions will be ready in U.S. shops this month...
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