Word: herds
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...sandy path that slashes through crevices in the cliff face. Once we reach the top, we gaze out over the red, rain-beaten peaks; below us, a half-full tour bus pulls up behind our jeep. Watching the foreigners spill out, we realize that after following the herd for years, we are discovering what it feels like to get somewhere first...
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY Turning the Herd...
...Stranded in a roadless region of Gobi-Altai that had been rendered inaccessible by snowdrifts, Bayarsakhan's family herd of 500 dwindled to 10. After a while, the family even stopped disposing of the corpses, instead piling them around their ger?a felt-covered Mongolian dwelling?for extra insulation. They burned furniture to keep warm. "If you don't have animals," says Bayarsakhan, "you have nothing." To survive, he left everything he'd ever known for a place where people dressed oddly, behaved differently and used paper money instead of bartering. His wife and infant son came with...
...Meanwhile, out on the steppe, Jampur is stubbornly?some might say foolishly?clinging to the nomads' age-old way of life. He relishes the freedom of herding and raising animals. And now he has the strongest horse he's ever owned. Even so, he finds his lot desperately hard. At 67, Jampur's fingers are crooked, and he coughs constantly. He walks uneasily on legs bowed as if frozen in the saddle. Jampur spends all his energy tending to a diminishing herd. During the winter, he lives in Uvurkhangai province about 400 kilometers west of the capital. Nearly three-quarters...
...past year, Jampur has lost 20 cows, 10 horses and some goats and sheep. Yet he considers himself fortunate. "Some of my neighbors lost their whole herd and had to leave the steppe," he says, stuffing his water pipe with tobacco while his wife feeds dung into the stove with her bare hand. Jampur can't conceive of following them to the city. He knows there was a drought this summer and heavy snowfall early in the winter?the hallmarks of another dzud?and his animals, he admits, already look thin. "But we've made it this far," he says...