Word: hesse
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Dates: during 1970-1979
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When edibles cause controversy, it is usually over their chemical content or price. And that, say Karen and John Hess in The Taste of America, is symptomatic of a deeper problem. As we worry about the additives we are ingesting, we have forgotten about what the chemicals were originally added to preserve. We have been weaned on Instant Breakfast, raised on Tastycakes and Big Macs, and disciplined by the threat of "no dimes for a Dairy Queen." Our "gourmet" restaurants serve prepackaged, precooked Lobster Thermidor. Our cookbooks are compendiums of corporate-test-kitchen press releases. And the average sugar consumption...
Ironically, because so few realms of food treatment escape the Hesses' criticism, The Taste of America may almost push the average American eater into the three-pills-day-nothing-more school just because after nearly 300 pages of expose with accompanying invective the invasion and triumph of junk food seems almost unsurmountable. And, after a time, boring. The book suffers on occasion from overexposure, or overexpose as the authors feel compelled to make a number of points over and over, ad nauseum, albeit with different examples. And, while their wit makes enjoyable reading, the sustained sharpness gives the book...
Nevertheless, both authors are experienced food critics (Mr. Hess for The New York Times until 1974, Ms. Hess as a freelancer), kitchen artists, and dedicated eaters, and in their round-up of the culinary business in America they've given us much food for thought--all of it spicy...
...view of the tower controllers, who as at many similar airports, had no ground radar to help them track surface traffic. For unexplained reasons, the white centerline lights embedded in the runway?a further aid to pilots when visibility is poor?were not operating. Inside the Clipper, Edward Hess, 39, a food broker from Phoenix, thought, "I don't know much about this, but this is below minimum." In fact, the degree of visibility remained an important point for investigators...
Cambridge Opera Workshop--Paul Hess conducts and Peter Frisch directs in an English-language production of Mozart's "Cosi Fan Tutte," libretto by da Ponte. Tickets $7.50, $5.00, $3.50. Info 899-9431 or 426-6210. New England Life Hall...