Word: hitachino
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...tasting. Kevin Garry, Gramercy's assistant beverage director, has lined up five glasses and five bottles on the long wooden table. First, Garry pours a 2002 Schneider Aventinus from Germany. It's caramel colored, with hints of nutmeg and banana bread. Next up is a spicy Hitachino from Japan, followed by a 1998 Rogue Old Crustacean from Oregon, with sherry and port qualities. "This is the new torch holder," he says as he fills a fourth glass with J.W. Lees Harvest. It's smooth, with hints of caramel and raisin...
Gramercy's beer list includes selections from North America, Europe and Japan, with bottles dating as far back as 1993 and ranging in price from $13 for a Hitachino Celebration Ale to $23 for a Thomas Hardy's Ale. Higgins Restaurant, an upscale bistro in Portland, Ore., even offers a short list of after-dinner beers. In March the Sheraton hotel chain Four Points named a chief beer officer to oversee its new lists of imported and regional craft beers. Meanwhile, waiters at the Michelin-starred Spotted Pig restaurant in New York City gently explain to patrons that cask-conditioned...
...what does more interesting beer taste like? The Hitachino Celebration Ale is brewed with orange peel, coriander, nutmeg and cinnamon. The high wheat content and nutmeg aroma of the Schneider Aventinus make it a great beer for a fall afternoon. Rogue Old Crustacean is intense and malty--a perfect complement, suggests Garry, to grilled meats or braised pork belly. The J.W. Lees Harvest would go well with a ginger cake, while the 1993 Thomas Hardy's is so rich and sweet, it could stand up to a Stilton...
...stuttering but bargoers are still eager to spend their yen on a pint of jibiiru, or craft beer, from one of the country's 300 or so microbreweries. And we're not just talking about local favorites; the popular Yona Yona Ale from Yoho Brewing in Nagano and Hitachino Nest Beer of Kiuchi Brewery have both won awards at international beer competitions. Microbrew aficionado Yasuhiro Tani got hooked while living in Texas; now the 46-year-old accountant only buys jibiiru, often over the Internet. "Regular beer is generally popular but banal," he says. "Craft beer is so various...
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