Word: hohensalzburg
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From the Festung Hohensalzburg, the fortified stone redoubt above the glorious Austrian city where Mozart was born, the old town presents a serene, unruffled vista. But look closer. Down on the Getreidegasse, a narrow medieval street near the Salzach River that is now a pedestrian mall, a motley multinational horde is snapping photos of the ancient house where young Wolfgang first quickened to the sound of his father's violin. Huge tour buses rumble down the streets and across the bridges, daily following the shade of Julie Andrews into the movie-set countryside. The garages are jammed, the restaurants...
Perched atop a hill 500 feet above the Austrian city of Salzburg (pop. 100,096), the Hohensalzburg Fortress looks for all the world like a candy castle in some fairy tale. A tiny railway scrambles to the top, and tourists flock to the terrace for a breath of mountain air and a view of the Salzburg valley below. Last week the tourists had an extra surprise in store for them. Oskar Kokoschka, one of the most furious individualists in modern art (TIME, July 12, 1948), had taken over the barracks of the old fortress for a summer art school...
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