Word: horseradish
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English pub beef sandwich with horseradish dressing...
MOST OVERWORKED CONDIMENT Cutting the mustard with just about everything from apricots to tarragon, with champagne, honey, horseradish, garlic, pickles and jalapenos in between, seemed the favorite ploy of sales-minded merchandisers, invariably with cloying results. Jars of mustard line store shelves as flavored oils and vinegars did a few years back...
Despite its name, Friday Saturday Sunday, another '70s winner, serves dinner all week in a jaunty storefront setting. The savory smoked bluefish with horseradish-flecked whipped cream proved a better starter than a Sichuan beef salad that had a caustic dressing. Duck with a sweet-and-pungent curry sauce was as delectable as the Cornish hen Normandy, stuffed with apples and walnuts...
...improvements. Among the better results are the brilliantly cold, clear oysters; bluepoints, Cotuits and belons are handsomely served on seaweed- strewn ice with a cocktail sauce that has a thicker, lusher texture than in the past. Other welcome additions are the puffy, golden-brown crab cakes with a gossamer horseradish-butter-cream sauce and the rose-pink calves liver bedded down on red-onion marmalade. Chicken hash, as always, is really creamed chicken but fresher and more flavorful...
...lemon juice is the ultimate substitute for salt, and I find that naive. I do, of course, on occasion resort to lemon. But flavors that compensate, those that give special zest to foods, are beyond count. I prefer fresh herbs like parsley, tarragon, finely chopped garlic and fresh grated horseradish; spices Like curry and chili powders, powdered mustard (made into a paste with water), hot pepper flakes, a generous grinding of black pepper and sugar. Soy sauce, incidentally, is loaded with sodium, even a low-sodium one you can buy in a health food store...