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EVERY war leaves to history its particular symbols of destruction-Verdun in the first World War; Coventry, Stalingrad and Dresden in the second. In Viet Nam, the enduring symbol is likely to be Hué, once the imperial capital and long the fountainhead of the country's intellectual and artistic tradition. A year ago, during the Communists' Tet offensive, Hué was battered as was no other city in Viet Nam. It took 26 days of house-to-house, block-to-block fighting to drive out a tenacious 6,000-man invading Communist force. The U.S. Marines...
Scars Remain. A year later, Hué is alive again, filled with barefoot children, busy street vendors, Buddhist priests and swarms of bicycles. But the scars, both physical and psychological, are still there. Reconstruction has been slow-despite more than $2,000,000 and the efforts of thousands of Vietnamese and Americans. It was not until last August that the effort picked up momentum...
...homes. The government pitched in with $85 allowances, the Americans with metal sheeting and cement to anyone who wanted to replace his lost home. Hospitals, schools, pagodas and churches were given priority for restoration. By Christmas the Phu Cam cathedral, partly destroyed in the battle, was reopened for Mass. Hué's isolation eased last month when rail service to Danang, 75 miles to the south, was restored...
Ducks on the Courts. But much remains to be done. Hundreds of people have refused to start rebuilding. Explains a student: "Some just take the government money and go away. Would you build a new house in Hué?" Of the original 115,000 refugees created by Tet, some 60,000 still subsist in camps. Hué University, once the pride of the old capital, has reopened, although still in temporary quarters. A professor says sadly: "We have more than 3,000 students again. But we are not yet a university. We lack books, facilities and teachers-most...
...essentials can be tough enough. A CAS plane was one of the last to leave the Citadel at Hué when North Vietnamese regulars stormed in. Another dropped in at Khe Sanh during the height of the siege to evacuate two wounded newsmen. Even in ordinary operations, CAS pilots, most of whom are ex-military aviators, more than earn their average tax-free pay of $2,000 a month. Often their "airstrips" are barely that-for example, at Nui Sap the strip is a 60-ft.-wide dike top that stretches for 960 ft. between two paddyfields. There...