Word: huong
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...maturity in the immediate post-World War II years and eventually attracted the attention and sponsorship of Saigon spooks of all sorts - from the CIA's Edward Lansdale (who arranged for An to study journalism during the late 1950s at California's Orange Coast College) to the communists' Muoi Huong (who became his case officer after his return to Vietnam...
...farm's 300 flower varieties aren't all that's blossoming in the cool mountain clime. In downtown Dalat, love is almost always in the air. Dalat has evolved into Vietnam's honeymoon capital. At hot spots like the scenic Valley of Love park and crescent-shaped Xuan Huong Lake, you'll find a lot of Disneyesque diversion, such as swan-shaped paddleboats. They may not be to everyone's taste, but there's no denying the romantic appeal of the town's evergreen forests, waterfalls and lakes. A major draw for many newlyweds is the colonial-style Sofitel Dalat...
...swim in one of the less greasy stretches. Or better still, escape the day-trip detritus altogether and arrange a few days on a luxury live-aboard junk complete with kayaks on which to paddle through the maze of inlets, mangrove lagoons and caves that honeycomb the shoreline. Try Huong Hai Tourism Co. in the bayside town of Bai Chay, tel: (84-33) 845-042, which operates several junks at $125 a person per day, including food, park fees and insurance. For kayaking, call Trails of Indochina in Hanoi at (84-88) 441-005, or Thailand-based SeaCanoe...
...Hanoi insists that every citizen has the right to religion, pointing to its millions of worshipers. Phan Thi Lan Huong is one of them. Surrounded by clouds of incense, the 59-year-old grandmother clutches her hands in prayer in front of an altar ringed with painted Buddhas. She is one of up to 20,000 who flock each day to the Chua Huong Pagodas southwest of Hanoi during the pilgrimage season. "Of course we are free to worship," she says, blinking with surprise. "The government never stops us?just those who have bad practices...
Limits remain, though. The press is still tightly censored, and outspokenness is punished. Duong Thu Huong, whose 1988 novel Paradise of the Blind portrayed the communist system as exploitative and corrupt, spent six months in jail in 1991 and remains under surveillance. Two of the country's most prominent Buddhist prelates are in prison or under house arrest for political activities. Though many of the country's leaders are themselves Buddhists, they are determined to keep religion from undermining their authority...