Word: husbandly
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...soaked by all the tears in Yu Hua's woebegone novel Cries in the Drizzle - originally serialized in a Shanghai literary journal in 1991, but recently published in English for the first time. In this glum and afflicted work, a schoolgirl blubbers when a snowball hits her; an unfaithful husband sobs at his wife's grave; a bride bawls when molested by her father-in-law; and, in the grisliest scene, a son keens into the void after a canine kills and eats his feeble mother...
...Tailgating" reminded me of a luncheon my husband and I planned about 30 years ago, prior to a UNC-Duke football game [Nov. 12]. We encountered horrendous traffic and had no time for our party, so we carried our coolers into the stadium and ate our quiche, raw vegetables and dip at our seats. Apparently our Yankee menu caused quite a sensation, and people all around us were staring and pointing. Finally, one young Southern gentleman, seated several seats to the right in the row below us, became so curious that he yelled, "What are they eating?" The answer...
...husband and I entered Osaka's Kitcho restaurant, we knew we were in for a one-of-a-kind meal: a master class in kaiseki, or formal banquet cuisine, and also in luxury, Japanese-style. Kaiseki is nothing like most Japanese food abroad. Sukiyaki, tempura, teppanyaki and even sushi are modern and often fusion inventions, many of them created to suit foreign tastes. A kaiseki banquet consists of multiple elaborate minicourses of rare seasonal ingredients, most unknown outside Japan. More than a meal, it's a multidisciplinary feast for the senses. Since it has roots in the Zen tea ceremony...
...reassured Kitcho that we weren't strangers to kaiseki. We've eaten at many exclusive kaiseki restaurants, including the renowned Hyotei and Kikunoi. I speak passable Japanese, and my epicurean husband happily devours everything from poison-blowfish sperm to stewed snapping turtle. Kitcho doesn't take credit cards, so we were prepared to pay $400 to $600 per person in cash. But in Japan--and certainly at Kitcho--protocol and relationships are sacred. You are nobody until someone introduces you properly. For us the magic word came from a friend, the Catalan chef Santi Santamaria, who had been introduced...
...time we came to the roasted oysters dengaku, Mrs. Yuki was discussing my husband's luxury business. In kaiseki, the first half-dozen courses are just nibbles to go with sake; the real meal is rice. In fact, the Japanese words for "meal" and "rice" are the same, gohan. That night's main event was another matsutake masterpiece, which the okami-san herself dished from the old-fashioned pot. The final bowl of shaved ice and matcha-tea syrup combined a clever reference to the tea ceremony with a last, nostalgic taste of summer...