Word: imlil
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...remains - charmingly, you could argue - in its infancy when it comes to signposts. Your best bet is to hire a local guide or, if you don't want to deal with logistics, Original Travel's excellent "big short break" arranges transfers and accommodation, www.originaltravel.co.uk. Our trailhead started at tiny Imlil (1,800 m), where the biggest municipal parking lot seemed to be the one reserved for mules. Fortunately, some of the "Berber four-wheel drives," as they're known locally, arrived to ferry up our bags - but we hoofed it to the impressively perched Kasbah du Toubkal...
...From Imlil, any number of mule trails lead into the park's rugged inner regions. Some Berber families now offer half-board lodging for as little as $12 a night. But for those looking for a bit more pampering, the Kasbah recently opened a cozy three-guest-room lodge, the first of its kind in the park, where host Omar welcomes hikers with a hearty handshake and a basin of rose water. A simple refuge overlooking a traditional village of flat-topped mud and stone houses, it was a perfect overnight stop on a two-day hike into...
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