Word: indianness
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...simply because of a general, blanket warning. The old policy also ignored regional variations in safety within countries, causing blatant inconsistencies. Ironically, students at Yale—who were under much looser restrictions than their Crimson peers until last week—have never been able to visit the Indian side of Kashmir with university support (but have been allowed to travel to the rest of the country). Harvard students, by contrast, have always been allowed to go there because Harvard’s travel policies are country-based instead of region-based. The College’s change...
...service opened between the halves of Kashmir divided between the two warring nations. An aunt and uncle whom Qumayon had never met, separated from him like many Kashmiri families by the partition of the subcontinent in 1947 and intervening wars, came across to see him in Uri, in Indian-held Kashmir. They had traveled from Muzzafarabad, the capital of Pakistani Kashmir, just over the Line of Control that separates the Indian and Pakistani portions of Kashmir. He proudly showed off his household, including his eldest son, Sohil, to the visiting aunt and uncle. ?They stayed for a month...
...Saturday, Uri had been a relatively safe place in Kashmir, despite its near proximity to the Line of Control. Aside from some stray shelling every few years from across the Pakistani border 12 miles away, Qumayom says his hometown was an island of peace amid the violence that swept Indian Kashmir when a civil war erupted between Indian soldiers and Muslim militants in 1989. ?Uri was safe,? he says. ?Nothing happened here. It?s always been a place apart. The soldiers did their duties and we did our jobs. We didn't bother each other...
...After a while the demonstrators lose their fire and retreat, spent, to the side of the road. We drive west toward Pakistan and the earthquake epicenter. We pass through Uri, the nearest thing to a big town in this Indian Kashmir valley, where devastated houses barely stand at odd angles, missing walls from which crumbling rock and debris poured down. An entire row of shops has lost its front, as though sliced off by a blunt cheese wire, and bars of Lux soap, pastries and plastic toys spill out onto the street. We pass broken villages and military camps, including...
...gardens, in their fields, in any spare patch of earth. And there's 67 more we know of still under the rubble. And then there's all the soldiers." He points to the ridge line which encircles Kamal Kote and which marks the heavily fortified Line of Control separating Indian and Pakistani Kashmir. "Hundreds of dead bodies," he says. "Thousands. They're surrounding you." And by candlelight, he finds us a place to sleep on the soft, shaking earth...