Word: indika
(lookup in dictionary)
(lookup stats)
Dates: during 2003-2003
Sort By: most recent first
(reverse)
Every Asian restaurant has its own take on authentic. At Indika, in the upscale Memorial neighborhood, it means reinterpretation. The techniques are scrupulously traditional, but every dish includes some surprise: crabmeat in the flaky samosas, fresh spinach and mustard greens in the saag paneer, and litchi juice in the margaritas. Indika's self-taught chef-owner, Anita Jaisinghani, 41, worked most recently at Cafe Annie, one of Houston's best-known restaurants. She knows when to keep things simple (a meltingly tender lamb shank) and when to experiment (puff pastry crowned with palm sugar and almonds). "I wanted to Americanize...
...While Indika focuses on North Indian cuisine, with flatbreads and meats, South Indian food, with a greater emphasis on rice and vegetarian dishes, gets star billing at two excellent restaurants between Greenway Plaza and Harwin's wholesale district. At Udupi, the mushroom curry is a standout. At Madras Pavilion, rice takes center stage: lemon rice, coconut rice, tamarind rice--each one laced with a different blend of spices, nuts and vegetables. Both make fine masala dosa, those paper-thin stuffed crepes, but Suprabhath, a casual takeout place in Hillcroft's Little India neighborhood, is even better...
...sudden rise in quality and variety of Asian restaurants in Houston might surprise some visitors, but at least one chef finds the city a logical fit. As Indika's Jaisinghani points out, "I don't think I could keep it this spicy in any other part of the country." The jury's still out on the chicken feet...
| 1 |