Word: inns
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...granny's tale. Ken Takakura, the John Wayne of Japan, conceived of a motion picture after visiting Chiran, in which he starred as a former kamikaze pilot who survived. Among the top-grossing domestic films of 2001, it was called Hotaru (Firefly). Hatsuyo now runs the Tomiya Inn in the building that once housed the eatery. Last fall, Akihisa, her brother-in-law, opened a near-exact replica of the eatery next door to display the soldiers' letters and photographs. It is called the Hotaru-kan, or the Firefly House...
...fanciest purveyors try to top one another with combinations of techniques, spiced with beauty treatments. Grove Park Inn Resort and Spa in Asheville, N.C., offers "Fire, Rock, Water and Light," in which the client's body is patted down with cool water, exfoliated with a blend of sugar and aromatic oil, painted with buttermilk and honey and then wrapped, whereafter cool rocks are stroked on the face. Once demummified, the client is given a "waterfall massage"--a spraying by multiple showerheads. In September the North Carolina Association of Realtors will send 1,000 participants to a conference at Grove Park...
...favorite is Kinugawa, north of Tokyo, near the ancient temple town of Nikko. Named for the glassy Kinu River it hugs, the old-fashioned onsen town so relaxes visitors that they wander its streets post-bath in cotton yukata robes. Hana no Yado Matsuya matsuya.co.jp) a venerable inn, features an impressive collection of dreamy Taisho-era portraits of kimono-clad beauties...
...colder months, Nagano prefecture--site of the 1998 Winter Olympics--offers the delightful contrast of piping-hot springs amid snow. Two hours west of Tokyo lie the vast Lake Suwa and the onsen town of Kamisuwa. At Saginoyu saginoyu.com) a historic inn, some of the grandest rooms offer private rotenburo, round cedar tubs overlooking the lake. But don't miss the communal onsen on the ground floor, where the rotenburo are shielded by tile roofs from which icicles hang in winter. In spring, cherry blossoms provide a pink feast for fatigued bathers' eyes...
...founding in 1878, the Fujiya Hotel fujiyahotel.co.jp in the hamlet of Miyanoshita has attracted foreign visitors, among them General Douglas MacArthur and John Lennon. Sepia-tinted Western charm--afternoon tea, French cuisine, decor like your Great Aunt Minnie's--infuses the famed institution. Across the street, the Naraya Inn (81-460-2-2411) offers more of a Japanese flavor. For centuries it has played host to traveling nobles who have sought out its airy tatami rooms with shoji screens opening on a traditional garden and ponds full of alarmingly aggressive carp...