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...magazine's readers are almost exclusively men, most of them between 18 and 34. Nearly half are servicemen, vets or law enforcement officers, according to a survey by Starch INRA Hooper, a New York research firm. Many readers seem to be Walter Mittys, content to experience danger vicariously. The magazine derives most of its revenue from circulation, but Brown is now pushing to attract big-name advertisers, including car and liquor companies. "It would be a hard sell for a media buyer," admits Advertising Manager Joan Steele. "The mercenary thing tarnishes our image...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Press: Quiche Eaters, Read No Further | 4/18/2005 | See Source »

France is counting on modern science to catch the impostors. The National Institute of Agricultural Research (INRA) has developed a type of DNA analysis to distinguish French fungi from Chinese without a taste test. Although French regulations call for a truffle's origins to be clearly marked, truffle experts say many vendors either ignore the rules or engage in outright mislabeling. France's fraud-control directorate carries out random DNA testing to flush out faux-truffle dealers. Anyone caught intending to deceive the consumer with a Chinese truffle may be fined $1,300. Still, there are few inspectors and many...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Truffle Scuffle | 4/17/2005 | See Source »

There's more to worry the truffle old school. "We saw in experiments that Tuber indicum is very dominant, competitive and aggressive," frets Gerard Chevalier, a researcher at INRA. He paints a scenario in which errant spores from imported Chinese truffles disperse into the air, contaminate the European countryside and beat the fungi out of their more fragile cousins. Already the ancient truffle terroir is being hammered by pesticides and urbanization. Two centuries ago, French black truffles were so abundant that they were cheaper than tomatoes; since then, the average annual truffle harvest in the Périgord region and beyond...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Truffle Scuffle | 4/17/2005 | See Source »

...There's more to worry the French. "We saw in experiments that Tuber indicum is very dominant, competitive and aggressive," frets Gerard Chevalier, a researcher at INRA. He paints a scenario in which errant spores from imported Chinese truffles disperse into the air, contaminate the French countryside and do ecological battle with their more fragile cousin. Already, the ancient truffle terroir is being hammered by pesticides and urbanization. Two centuries ago, French black truffles were so abundant that they were cheaper than tomatoes; yet since then, the average annual harvest in the P?rigord region and beyond has declined from some...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Truffle Kerfuffle | 2/14/2005 | See Source »

...mycological possibility. In the past year, he has begun exporting his own truffle oil and is starting a canned foie gras business using geese imported from Hungary. Now, he's attempting to duplicate the soil and precipitation conditions of southern France in his Yunnan fields. Just like France's INRA, Wu has done his own truffle-DNA testing, and he is determined to reverse-engineer an Eastern facsimile of a P?rigord. If he can create the correct environmental conditions, Wu believes Yunnan's plentiful land and low fixed costs will make him even more of a threat to the French...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Truffle Kerfuffle | 2/14/2005 | See Source »

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