Word: iraqi
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...forces began to work with the Marines in a tacit "the enemy of my enemy is my friend" alliance. "If the objective is zero violence in the nation of Iraq, it's impossible," Kelly said. "But if the objective is [to reduce] violence [to a level] manageable by the Iraqi police and the Iraqi army, we're all but there throughout most of the country...
...first plane ride into Baghdad International Airport. The descent, once famous for its harrowing, evasive corkscrew maneuver, was peaceful. We looped around the airport, above long rows of tan army tents at camps Liberty and Victory, delayed only by a small dust storm. In the row behind me, Iraqi gentlemen in blazers laughed the whole way. A few aisles up, a mountainous, tattooed contractor dozed in headphones...
...know what became of Iman. Aided by a fixer, I cleared immigration quickly and without incident. Likewise without a problem, TIME's Iraqi security detail drove me into the center of the city on what used to be called the Highway of Death. We passed through several checkpoints on the way that were manned by the Iraqi army and in one case by Ministry of the Interior forces. In each case, the guards waved us through. Above, a pair of Black Hawk helicopters crossed the sky. (See pictures of daily life returning to normal in Baghdad...
...cares about services, some would wonder, when there has been a change in leadership? Saddam is not in charge. And maybe now, maybe soon, neither will the United States. As I was headed into the Green Zone the next day to pick up my credentials, an Iraqi army soldier stopped me. He did not want to let me through his checkpoint. Through a translator, he said that I would need a military escort to come get me, though the reporter I was with said no one had ever needed one before. A young U.S. Army soldier nearby agreed that...
...have met here acts as though Baghdad, outside the Green Zone, is really a secure place. There are still blast walls and precautions and nerves, though of course 6½ million people live here, as they must. Maybe the numbers speak for themselves. On Feb. 19, 2008, Iraqi Body Count, one of the several contentious projects to record violent civilian deaths, reported 37 dead. On the same date a year later, as I arrived, it reported 9 dead, plus 17 bodies discovered in a mass grave for a total of 26. Amid whatever change has come, or is coming, these...