Word: issey
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When Perse and Dubois-Dumée spend a day buying the cerebral, sensual extravagances of Issey Miyake, the same general rules apply as when Kaplan cases Armani or when Judy Krull checks out Lagerfeld's surprisingly direct and swellegant new line, the first under his own name. In the showroom, armed with order forms, style books, color charts, the buyers, with occasional encouragement and sweet talk from the designers, start to act just like serious shoppers. They pull clothes off racks, hold them up, try them on. Armani's definitive long coats and shorter sexy skirts...
...idea and the allure of the designers," grouses Jean-Paul Gaultier, whose clothes attempt to transform the pandemonium of London rock fashion into a whimsical redefinition of youth a la mode. "They buy a big, oversized suit in a small size so it becomes superclassic, not all me." Issey Miyake expects buyers "to be creative. Sometimes they're afraid and I say, please, try. I expect people I work with to do something fresh. That way they don't get tired of me and I don't get tired of them...
...concealing-certain inevitable animosities. The buyers think they are being pushed too hard to spend too much. The designers keep a little distance, knowing, at least, that any buyer is capable of the kind of catty commercial aside that was overheard in Miyake's Paris salesroom: "All my Issey customers have fat asses...
Yohji Yamamoto. Rei Kawakubo. Issey Miyake...
This may seem like heavy freight for mere fashion to bear, but Japanese designers do not usually make the fussy Western distinction between craft and art. Issey Miyake talks about the "energy" of fabric and works with a bolt of cloth like a sculptor with clay, not molding it into a presketched design but draping the whole length over a body, drawing the shape of the final garment from the fabric itself as it works in easy collaboration with the body. Rei Kawakubo, the most austere and cerebral of these new designers, speaks intensely about "getting down to the essence...