Word: issey
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...Lacroix creates with his head in the past-the past of the French masterpieces in the Louvre. To some women his work is overdecorated, but his clothes are endless reveries on color executed in minute detail, such as Lesage embroidery, usually found only in handmade costumes. Similarly, Japan's Issey Miyake, who has never cared a whit about hemlines or gold chains, played a gentle counterpoint to the mainstream with radiant fabrics and a magicianly way with material that amounted to sculpting...
...cynical as this one. Anyway, a cynic is what it got during the industry's big pret-a-porter shows in Paris last spring, when Altman mingled with the modish elite and found room in his film for many of them: designers Christian Lacroix, Jean Paul Gaultier and Issey Miyake, models Naomi Campbell and Christy Turlington and CNN fashion maven Elsa Klensch...
...nines. You could argue, as writer-director Michael Tolkin doubtless did when he was pitching The New Age, that they are perfect exemplars of chic anomie as it manifests itself in postmodern -- or postrational -- Los Angeles. You could also argue, as people whose malls don't yet contain an Issey Miyake boutique might, that they are hopeless twits...
...Unfortunately they suggest Jean-Paul Gaultier's Paris more readily than ancient Athens. More striking are the costumes containing Oriental references. They make the wearers appear larger -- read fatter -- than they are, a particular pity with a fit and youthful-looking cast. The inspiration seems to have come from Issey Miyake, a master at making small figures look grand. Rosalie received her curtain-call boos in an outfit by the Japanese designer, but his magic touch turned out to be untransferable...
...names -- Ryuichi Sakamoto, Angelo Badalamenti (of Twin Peaks fame), Andrew Lloyd Webber; Placido Domingo was followed by a sea of "living sculptures" designed by a man from the West Indies. And some of the grandest cheers of all came as the unfamiliar Lithuanian flag hung over costumes fashioned by Issey Miyake...