Word: issey
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...season's most exotic and original fashion book is Issey Miyake (New York Graphic Society; $40). Japanese designer Miyake's particular genius is with fabric and shape. Here are lilting cascades of pleats, riffs on the jumpsuit that really leap, whirling fantasies on samurai gear. Seen through photographer Irving Penn's daring aesthetic eye, the clothes have a drama that nearly engulfs the imagination. The affable accompanying essay is a reminder that these duds are wearable...
...however, continues on his own way as unerringly as Issey Miyake. This new collection is his 31st, but it abounds with so many notions about shape and fabric that it bursts open like a just discovered treasure chest. The waist rises on a short black leather skirt, but the hem falls irregularly. A raincoat is made of polyester that feels and falls like inked paper. One pantsuit in atomic-orange wool knit looks like a drill uniform for fashion insurrectionists. Another pantsuit in silk clings and flares in the jacket, rides the waist, then blossoms out in the cuffs, looking...
...salon where you can settle down, fool around with the clothes and schmooze with -- or at least step over -- the grand master, Lacroix is attracting other wealthy young people accustomed to haute ready-to-wear. Living for the city lights, they are the type who might sport a subtle Issey Miyake one night, an elegant Giorgio Armani the next...
Like the young Japanese designer today who dreams of retracing Issey Miyake's path to New York City, students in Tokyo then yearned for Paris, the capital of modernity. By the turn of the century there was a tenacious Japanese painters' colony in Paris, and the big academic teaching studios that catered to foreign students -- Cormon's, Carolus-Duran's, Collin's -- all had, in addition to their stock of Americans, a number of Japanese students. Many of the students would have preferred to study with the new masters whose work was creating a modernist sensibility, but Van Gogh...
...long, three-tier art deco glass bar is cracked deliberately. One might as well be in Milan. Lucchino's is the work of Shiro Kuramata, 52, a furniture and interior designer with a considerable reputation in Europe as well as Japan. His boutiques around the world for Issey Miyake are black chain-link nests. The feel Kuramata seems to be after is a kind of monastery for 21st century hipsters, a futuristic...