Word: jaisinghani
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...authentic. At Indika, in the upscale Memorial neighborhood, it means reinterpretation. The techniques are scrupulously traditional, but every dish includes some surprise: crabmeat in the flaky samosas, fresh spinach and mustard greens in the saag paneer, and litchi juice in the margaritas. Indika's self-taught chef-owner, Anita Jaisinghani, 41, worked most recently at Cafe Annie, one of Houston's best-known restaurants. She knows when to keep things simple (a meltingly tender lamb shank) and when to experiment (puff pastry crowned with palm sugar and almonds). "I wanted to Americanize the food slightly," she says, "but just...
...sudden rise in quality and variety of Asian restaurants in Houston might surprise some visitors, but at least one chef finds the city a logical fit. As Indika's Jaisinghani points out, "I don't think I could keep it this spicy in any other part of the country." The jury's still out on the chicken feet...
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