Word: jayasundera
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...whole ethos is that luxury travel is about having experiences," says James Jayasundera, founder of Ampersand Travel in London, which specializes in customized tours of the Indian subcontinent. Paradoxically, in a country with 1.1 billion people, it can be tricky for visitors to truly connect with even one or two natives. "Traveling by train for short distances has always been a good way for foreigners to engage locals," he says. "Now there are a lot of small hotels run by absolutely fascinating people where guests mingle, sometimes eat together. These are also the best places for meeting upwardly mobile Indians...
...raves about Devi Garh, an 18th century fort in Rajasthan, a short hop from Udaipur, with 39 suites featuring mod interiors, and gets so excited talking about Ahilya Fort in Maheshwar, in the central state of Madhya Pradesh--a region that Jayasundera feels has been unfairly neglected by tour operators--that he chokes with laughter. "The Indore royal family that owns the small fort were very avant-garde. They had an amazing art collection by the '30s, and they were the first family to build an air-conditioned palace," he says, going on to describe the Labradors that jump...
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