Word: jeane
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Dates: during 1980-1989
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...Jean's defection confronts Gerard and his friends with a vexing dilemma. Although they fulminate at length against the predatory Crimond, they are bound to him by an old pact. Years earlier, they had formed a committee to subsidize Crimond so that he would be free to write what everyone then thought would be an important book of political philosophy. "We were all Marxists once," Gerard notes, but times and beliefs have changed. Still, their humane, liberal inclinations prevent the companions from going back on their word. As Gerard says, "There's nothing we can do except curse privately that...
...Davis, Susan Lynd, Camille Sanabria, Clementina Allured, Melissa August, Sharon Boger, Donald N. Collins, Joan A. Connelly, Eileen Harkin, Susanna M. Schrobsdorff News Desks: Brian Doyle, Waits L. May III, Jacalyn McConnell, John F. McDonald, David Richardson, Adam Sexton, Pamela H. Thompson, Diana Tollerson, Joanne Waugh, Ann Drury Wellford, Jean R. White, Mary Wormley...
There can be adverse reactions to these champagne clothes, and not everyone is hopping aboard Lacroix's bandwagon. His outfits are not for the dress-for- success crowd -- only for those who have succeeded. Then there are the enthusiasts of top ready-to-wear designers like Jean-Paul Gaultier and Claude Montana and several of the Japanese, all intellectual, all looking toward futuristic silhouettes. To them, Lacroix is a crashing irrelevance. Alan Bilzerian, owner of two au courant shops in Massachusetts, who heavily backs the Japanese, writes Lacroix off briskly: "It's like a foul ball; he hit it over...
Some commentators predicted that Lacroix was too extreme and too irreverent to last, but he has only strengthened his position. Frustrated at Patou's reluctance to start a ready-to-wear line, he abruptly left in 1987, chased by a $13.1 million lawsuit. With Jean-Jacques Picart, a close friend on the business side of Patou, he set up his own house, backed by Agache, the conglomerate that also owns Dior...
...fashion story of Lacroix at Patou is one of triumph, the human one contains some sorrow. Jean de Mouy, then 29, had just taken over his family's perfume business when he hired the untried young designer. De Mouy's long shot triumphed, and the House of Patou was restored to its glory days of the '30s. But Picart and Lacroix made demands. They wanted to embark on ready-to-wear as soon as possible. Says Lacroix: "I was creating designs, but people couldn't afford them. I started suffering." About his chimerical designer, De Mouy is philosophical: "I still...