Word: jeans
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Dates: during 1980-1989
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FRANCE. The government has forecast growth of 2.8% this year, but Jean-Marie Chevalier, professor of economics at the University of Paris Nord, contends that it will be more like 2%. He cites soft consumer demand at home and still softer exports as causes for concern. Traditionally, some 30% of French exports go to the Organization of Petroleum Exporting Countries and other developing nations where lower oil revenues and large debt loads have sharply curtailed purchasing power. As a result, France's export earnings are bound to suffer. Sluggish growth may nudge up unemployment from 10.6% to 11% this year...
This premature event looks like a real retrospective but is not one. It covers the past seven years of Salle's work and is -- to pinch a term from Jean Baudrillard, the French semiotician whose phrases are parroted everywhere in the art world today and recur like pious ejaculations in the exhibition catalog -- a "simulacrum." In days of yore, the aim of a museum retrospective used to be clear. It was to sum up a distinguished career, presenting the evidence of a long life's work. For a major museum to give a 34-year-old artist a retrospective would...
...guerrillas, not all Third World aid reaches its destination. Some is skimmed off by corrupt middlemen, some may wind up in the pockets of a country's officials, and still more may spoil or be stolen. "I wouldn't claim that 100% gets exactly where it should," concedes Jean-Pierre Hocke, United Nations high commissioner for refugees. Hocke estimates that up to 10% of relief contributions for refugees never gets to them. Says Millicent Fenwick, the American envoy to the U.N. Food and Agriculture Organization in Rome: "You have to understand that we are dealing with human beings, not saints...
Some observers credit British Designer Vivienne Westwood, who introduced short hoop skirts and "minicrinis" in 1985 as part of a collection that was never even produced. But let the history books show that since 1981 Christian Lacroix, couturier at the House of Jean Patou, has been experimenting with petticoats and showing a few puffy skirts each season...
...Costume Institute caused Lacroix to change careers. "It really reawakened my passion for clothes," says Lacroix. Showing some sketches around in Paris, he found work easily, first at Hermes, then at Guy Paulin. In 1981 the call came from Patou, where control of the firm had just passed to Jean de Mouy, grandnephew of the original designer and the third generation of his family to run the business. De Mouy was all of 29 and determined "to see that, three generations after me, it is still a family house." His plan: install a designer who would restore the house...