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Kazimierz, Krakow's 600-year-old Jewish quarter, used to be somewhere to avoid, especially at night. Damaged and depopulated during World War II, and further devastated under communist rule, the area of cobbled alleys, courtyards and galleried houses became shabby and forgotten, a neglect that preserved its historic character. But since Poland's return to democracy the neighborhood has been rejuvenated, and now boasts trendy restaurants and bars, an annual arts festival and the Center for Jewish Culture...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: The Heart Of the City | 6/6/2005 | See Source »

...Near this museum is one of the area's elegant caf?s, Mleczarnia, where you can enjoy coffee, beer and wine, pastries and pierogi (stuffed dumplings) at tables set out in the street. Klezmer Hois on Szeroka Street offers daily live Jewish music and such traditional cuisine as cholent (hearty stew) and pascha (a dessert with cream cheese and raisins) in a converted mikvah (ritual bath) furnished with antiques and lace tablecloths. Both venues will host gigs during the Festival of Jewish Culture (June 25-July 3; www.jewishfestival.pl/), which features the toe-tapping klezmer played in Europe from the 15th...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: The Heart Of the City | 6/6/2005 | See Source »

Kazimierz, Krakow 's 600-year-old Jewish quarter, used to be somewhere to avoid, especially at night. Damaged and depopulated during World War II, and further devastated under communist rule, the area of cobbled alleys, courtyards and galleried houses became shabby and forgotten, a neglect that preserved its historic character. But since Poland's return to democracy the neighborhood has been rejuvenated, and now boasts trendy restaurants and bars, an annual arts festival and the Center for Jewish Culture. Near this museum is one of the area's elegant cafés, Mleczarnia, where you can enjoy coffee, beer...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: The Heart Of the City | 6/5/2005 | See Source »

...shutting out the iniquitous world beyond their walls. Lately, though, they've concluded the biggest threat lies within - Patriarch Eirinaios I, who's at the center of a labyrinthine religious and legal scandal involving the alleged lease of Church properties in an Arab area of the Old City to Jewish investors. Eirinaios' opponents within the Greek Orthodox Church accuse him of shady financial dealings, while his Palestinian flock complains that the leases give Israel a politically charged foothold in an Arab neighborhood of Jerusalem. The scandal has divided the Church - which owns some of the most important Christian shrines...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: An Unorthodox Deal? | 5/29/2005 | See Source »

...says. "They were the subordinate characters. They were the wife, the spouse, the girlfriend. I thought, I'm a woman trial lawyer. I'm not that rare a bird." She also found the characters too white bread. "I'm an Italian American," she says. "I grew up in a Jewish neighborhood. I saw no Italians and Jews. I want people whom I recognize...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Pinstripes And Pearls | 5/29/2005 | See Source »

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