Word: jicamas
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...woman's jacket. You can't walk down the street without running into them. On the corner where the / disco used to be, a Latin-beat club; kids hip hop on floors that withstood the bump. For lunch, a burrito. What's that in the salad? It's jicama. (Say hee- ca-ma.) Things that once seemed foreign now seem as American as . . . a burrito. With each fresh connection tastes are being rebuilt, new understandings concluded. The American mind is adding a new wing...
...hand at home. According to industry analysts, Mexican food sales in the U.S. have jumped from $200 million in the early '70s to more than $1 billion last year. Grocery stores and produce markets are beginning to stock everything from taco shells and frozen burritos to such produce as jicama, cassava, cherimoya, yucca and papaya...
...elegant hotel the Mansion on Turtle Creek, whose chef, Dean Fearing, offers The Mansion on Turtle Creek Cookbook (Weidenfeld & Nicolson; 287 pages; $25). Fearing has adapted the spicy Indian-Mexican-Spanish influences of the region to fashionable nouvelle creations like lobster taco with yellow-tomato salsa and jicama salad. His intricate arrangements and subtle desert colors make his creations as intriguing to the eye as to the palate, although nearly impossible for the average home cook to duplicate...
...timeliest and most truly helpful book of the year. Uncommon Fruits and Vegetables (Harper & Row; $25) covers in detail all the exotic fruits and vegetables now appearing in produce departments across the country. In words and pictures she tells readers how to identify, buy, store, clean and prepare jicama, atemoya, daikon, nopales and calabaza, among dozens of others. Although some of the fruits and vegetables in this compendium are hardly uncommon to old-world chefs (celeriac, parsley root, arugula, broccoli rab and gooseberries, for example), they can be flora incognito to many new chefs. Not after this...
...ship produce to far-off places, a consideration that will probably become less important as American farmers continue to experiment with these varieties. The appeal of these new products is not limited to New York and California, as food trends so often are. In Chicago, the current rage is jicama (pronounced hee-kahmah), a knobby, earth-colored tuber from Mexico; it looks rather like a giant water chestnut, which is just about what this crisp, icy salad vegetable tastes like. Jicama has been heavily promoted at the 87 Dominick's supermarkets, with good results. "We used to sell a case...